No Bad Dogs!

Behavioral problems often cause dog owners to give up on their dog and surrender it to a shelter. Behavioral problems can range from in-house urination to dangerous aggression, from destructiveness to disobedience, from too active and playful to ignoring you completely. Identifying exactly what is the cause of the behavior problem is sometimes half the battle. Most often the problem is boredom and frustration caused by a simple lack of exercise.

Rule #1: A tired dog is a good dog - WALK or RUN your dog every day. Higher energy breeds, such as herding dogs, or working dogs are ideal exercise partners.

Rule #2: The human must always be the "BIG DOG!"

Recent studies show that pets adopted at less than six months of age and who spend much of the day alone in crates or in the backyard are at high risk of surrender to shelters because they become a “problem dog.” Owners of these pets do not make a commitment to exercise, socialize and obedience train when they acquired their puppy or young adult dog. When boredom and frustration build to problem dog status pet owners are often unable to find the help they need to resolve problems that ensue. These high risk dogs often have one general problem in common; Dangerous behaviors of acting aggressively towards other dogs and people.

At 12 months of age Gypsy had developed into a problem dog. In October 2005 we rescued Gypsy, a 12-month-old black and tan female German Shepherd, from the city pound gas chamber. Gypsy's 2nd owner in just 12 months had decided to take her to the City Pound, as did her 1st owner, due to behavior problems. Classified as a two-owner problem dog she would not have left the pound alive. The 2nd owner said Gypsy's problem behaviors included: soiling the rug, frantic running around the back yard and house, separation anxiety howling, ignoring commands, and aggressive behavior toward their other dog which was quickly escalating.

These bad behaviors were too much for the 2nd owners to handle so they lodged Gypsy at our vet's boarding kennel almost 5 days out of every seven for a few weeks until they finally decide to turn her over to the city pound. My wife happened to work at the vet hospital and feeling sorry for Gypsy she took Gypsy for short walks and gave her attention as the vet office patient schedule allowed. Gyspy had had some obedience training, but there was never any regular follow up practice training and social training except as the kennel staff or my wife had time to give.

No exercise, no training, and almost no social contact – why wouldn’t she be a problem dog at just one year of age.

One day the 2nd owners told the kennel staff of their decision to take Gypsy to the city pound. The 2nd owners, themselves, had taken Gypsy in to save her; they really did not want to take her to the pound, but they felt they had no choice. The kennel staff then asked my wife if she wanted to add a fifth German Shepherd Dog to our pack. Gypsy is a beautiful colored shepherd from German lines and we just couldn't see her taken to the pound. We rescued her, as we had rescued two of our pack before her, and immediately started a program of exercise and obedience training.

Gypsy indeed was a dog who desperately needed attention and traning. I was already taking three of my four German Shepherds for a 6 mile+/- run almost every day when we rescued Gypsy. Lacey, our then fourth and oldest female is too old run with the pack, so my wife walks Lacey separately. – As it turns out, an important fact I’ll explain later. – Gypsy immediately started running with my other dogs, although, after life as a kennel dog, it took many weeks and months for Gypsy to gradually increase her running distance from just a few blocks to six or more miles.

I had been told Gypsy was dog aggressive, so at first I walked then ran her with just one other dog to do the basic behavior training. Gypsy was more playful than overtly aggressive, but I could see her intention was to test her limits of dominance – she has a strong Alpha personality and strong Shepherd herding drive. It took a month or so for her to become one with the idea that as we start out on our walks and runs it’s NOT a time to play and tussle rather it’s a time for serious WORK. Each of my dogs went through this “running is work not playtime” learning experience, but Gypsy required a little more effort.

During and after our walks and runs we always practice obedience command training. A tired dog is a good dog and a dog more receptive to training. Most of Gypsy’s “problem dog” behavior disappeared within just a few days after we rescued her and started her exercise and training program. After a few weeks of training and runing with just one then two other dogs, I started running Gypsy with all three of my other runner dogs. Even now Gypsy will occasionally overly excited as we get started, but a firm “Gypsy Run or Walk” gets her focused on work again.

I leave no doubt that I’m the BIG DOG when we run. I train my dogs to obey voice commands to walk, run, stop (and wait for traffic), go left, go right, sit, down and stay during our run. Voice-command obedience is a crucial safety requirement when running with several large dogs in city traffic. Gypsy is very smart and quickly learned obedience commands.

Socializing youngest female Gypsy with oldest female Lacey required, and still requires, more vigilance and extra care in training by us human pack leaders. Running Gypsy with the other dogs quickly formed a positive pack bond between Gypsy and the other three dogs. We realized that by initially running and walking Gypsy with only the other dogs, but never with Lacey, we created a social rift between Gypsy and Lacey. This precipitated some aggressive tendencies between the two girls in the early months of Gypsy's adoption, but strong obedience training helped put Gypsy and Lacey in check. We continue our efforts to strengthen a healthy social bond between Gypsy and Lacey and the other dogs too. I still run Gypsy with the other dogs, but we’ve added an occasional walk with Gypsy and Lacey to improve their pack social bond.

Today, Gypsy is a well-behaved happy member of our five Shepherd pack. On those few days when I can’t run the dogs a few miles, Gypsy’s high energy can still lead to an occasional show of high-spirited play with the other dogs that we closely monitored.

Let’s get one thing straight - There is no such thing as a “problem” dog. The truth is, ANY dog, big or small, can develop problem behavior. Problem behavior is a symptom of a bored dog; a dog whose life is not fulfilled and guided by their human pack leaders. Some breeds, including German Shepherds, are more powerful than other breeds, so if they develop problem behaviors or become aggressive, they can almost always do much more damage.

Here are some things you can do to keep your dog mentally and physically exercised:

1. Exercise your dog every day. Go for a long walk or run, throw the ball in the yard, or do whatever it takes to get your dog to burn off some of the extra energy.
   
2. Practice obedience every day… By working your dog through the commands, you can help him/her behave more calmly. It uses up mental as well as physical energy and more importantly, this establishes you as the dominant leader of the pack.
3. Keep your voice calm. If your dog’s surroundings are high-strung, so will be your dog’s behavior. Avoid yelling at all costs. Instead, use an explaining voice to correct your dog. You must be calm assertive in order for your dog to be calm submissive!
   
4. Buy your dog some new toys. New toys are always a big help to keep your dog entertained, calm and submissive.
5. Social training for Shepherds is a MUST! Take your dog on social training trips to PetsMart and other such stores where other dogs can be found. Teach them to be calm around other dogs. You can also get obedience and social training help at most pet stores or ask your vet or your dog's breeder for a good dog trainer.

The White German Shepherd Dog

Read my history of the White German Shepherd Dog -

Read my paper on German Shepherd Genetics

Take Your Dog for a Fartlek

As fun to run as it is to say, a fartlek workout is a kind of informal interval training session and a great way to incorporate speed work into your distance run. "Fartlek" is Swedish for "speed play." It consists of bursts of speed through a long run. After warming up, run at an easy training pace, throwing in bursts of speed for various distances throughout the run. Vary the speed and times of the speed runs, from as short as 15 seconds to as long as two or three minutes. Between these bursts, allow yourself and your dog enough recovery time to match roughly 2/3 of the effort time. The recovery pace, though, should be faster than the recovery jog you might do during intervals on the track; keep it moving at an easy training pace.

If you are wondering what "Fartlek" means, Fartlek, which means "speed play" in Swedish, is a form of conditioning which puts stress mainly on the aerobic energy system due to the continuous nature of the exercise. The difference between this type of training and continuous training is that the intensity or speed of the exercise varies, meaning that aerobic and anaerobic systems can be put under stress. Most fartlek sessions last a minimum of 45 minutes and can vary from aerobic walking to anaerobic sprinting. Fartlek training is generally associated with running, but can include almost any kind of exercise.

Fartlek training was developed in 1937 by Swedish coach Gösta Holmér (1891–1983) and has been adopted by many physiologists since. It was designed for the downtrodden Swedish cross-country teams that had been thrashed throughout the 1920s by Paavo Nurmi and the Finns. Holmér's plan used a faster-than-race pace and concentrated on both speed and endurance training.

Personal Trainer

Are you paying a personal trainer to help you exercise? Save your money and take a friend running! Exercising with your dog may be one of the best things you can do for your own, and your dog’s mental and physical health. Dogs love to go for a walk or a run and they will nag you to exercise better than any high priced trainer.

The right gear will make the running experience more rewarding and safer for both you and your dog. Cars are the biggest and most avoidable risk to your dog while running so always keep your dog on a leash. Think about buying a special “running time leash” that your dog will learn to associate with running vs. walking. If you run after sunset or before sunrise think about buying your dog a reflective or flashing collar; Some reflective tape applied to the leash works well too. Dogs can dehydrate more easily than a human, so take a fanny pack with a water bottle on longer runs in warmer weather. BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR - take along doggy poop bags and pick up after you dog.

A pulling dog results in a bad running experience for both you and your dog. You and your dog should practice basic obedience skills before starting to run together. Not only will it be easier to run with your dog, but also you will lower your risks of tangling up with other runners and dogs you meet along the way. Take a few minutes after every run to practice basic obedience skills with your dog. No matter the age of your dog, with a little training and time, your dog will quickly learn good running behavior.

Selecting a New Running Partner

Like many runners, I'm in constant search of the perfect training partner. My requirements are stringent: my partner has to show up on time for workouts, be enthusiastic about the idea of hill repeats (even at 5 a.m.) and has to listen sympathetically to the latest business crisis.

A runner's worst fear, a dog, can also be a runner's best training partner. A K9 running partner offers many benefits for a runner. A dog adds a sense of security. A dog is always ready and willing to run. A dog never criticizes your running form. A dog does not chatter on about personal problems. A dog does not mind running the same boring route every day. A dog does not complain if you spontaneously change your daily route.

On the dog side, a dog that burns off energy is a happy and good dog. A dog accustomed to a running routine may shame a reluctant partner into a pair of running shoes and out of the door. My German Shepherds often get my running shoes and drop them at my feet, or on my head if I oversleep in the morning, on those days I am less motivated to get out the door to run.

Not all dogs are born to run!. A great running dog depends on three things: genetic temperament, socialization and training. Some dogs are born with easygoing personalities. That's how some people get away without training or socializing their dogs. But if your dog doesn't have the "work" temperament, you've got an uphill battle ahead of you.

The best running breeds include labs, retrievers, working dogs, such as Doberman pinschers and German shepherds, and herding breeds like collies, shelties and heelers. Although breed has something to do with determining a dog's ability as a runner, that isn't necessarily the first criteria. Generally, any dog that's been bred to work athletically and to respond to people is likely to make a good running partner.

Here are some common sense guidelines for selecting a new running partner:

• Carefully choose your breed. All dogs are not created equal. The ideal running dog is medium-built, weighs 50 to 90 pounds, and has short light hair. Greyhounds, Labrador Retrievers, and short hair German Shepherds are good runners. Avoid large dogs like Great Danes, and small dogs like Chihuahuas, since their body proportions do not favor distance running.
• Avoid engineered breeds. The breathing system of Bulldogs is ill-developed and does not permit intense aerobic activity. German Shepherds with very short hind hips can't run with ease and can suffer debilitating inherited conditions such as hip displasia..
  
• Respect the heat. Dogs dissipate heat through their paws and mouths. Long-haired dogs like Chows and Collies have more difficulty in the heat. Plan your running route to allow drinking stops, and let the dog run through puddles.
• Puppies should not run long distances. Wait until the dog is 1 year old to begin running and wait until your dog is two years old to run distances over 5 to 6 miles. Start with half a mile every other day. Increase the distance by 10 percent each week. Give the dog a day off for every day of running.
• Watch the paws carefully. Dogs do not have the luxury of carbon rubber outsoles. Check the paws before and after every run for any cuts or abrasions.
• Run on a soft surface. The best running surfaces for dogs are grass fields and dirt trails. Concrete and hot asphalt impair a dog's ability to dissipate heat through the paws. At the other extreme, frozen roads, ice and salt are harmful to the paws.
• Keep the dog on a leash when running on public roads and trails. It is safer for everyone, and it is the law in many communities. A 6-foot leash gives the dog room to run away from your feet.
• Keep the dog visible to traffic. At night, use a reflective dog harness, a reflective tape the length of the leash, or flashing lights around the collar.
• If you must run on roads, avoid busy traffic.
  
• Train your dog to obey you and ignore distractions. A simple jerk on the leash should bring the dog back to your left side.
• A road race is usually not a safe place for a dog and remember, many runners fear dogs.
• Before including your K9 friend on daily runs, he should be examined by a veterinarian. The exam should include a thorough check of the animal's heart and lungs, joints, and ligaments.
  

Training your Dog to Run in the City

Sometimes a particularly interesting scent or a rabbit jumping up in our path is just too much for the dogs to ignore, even for my “most well behaved” dogs. But, a well trained obedient dog is easily and quickly controlled. I’ve learned strict training with voice commands are a real safety necessity when running with several large German Shepherds. Even running with just one Shepherd can be difficult if the dog is not well trained on voice commands. Running along and crossing busy streets with heavy traffic can be down right dangerous. The training and good voice command response has saved us more than once when cars sped through red lights or turn unexpectedly without signaling. I always run them on leash for that extra measure of safety control, and we have a leash ordinance in Plano, so it’s the law.

When I ran with just one dog I taught him to obey the “heel” command, which kept keep him running at my left-hand side, with his eyes even with my left leg. He could see my leg to “read” my actions and follow along. This mostly avoided any confusion as to who goes where and who is in charge of the route. The heel command also refocuses the dog on running and not on interesting scents to sniff, rabbits or other dogs that come along.
Running with several large dogs is different than running with just one dog. Its really not possible to have them all run at my side. Now I allow them to run out in front, kind of like a dog sled team. I teach my dogs commands to stop, go right, go left, go straight, and so forth just as with sled teams. Voice commands to stop, run, walk, right, left, etc are a must since they aren’t at my leg to “read” my actions and follow along. Plus, all my shepherds together out weigh me and could almost drag me flapping in the wind were they not trained on voice commands. If they hesitate at a distraction or start at a rabbit that jumps up, a strong command to “RUN” or "WALK" or “STOP and SIT” as appropriate gets everyone focused again.

During the hot Texas summer months I always start my run with the dogs about sunrise. Even sunrise temperatures in July and August are often near 80 degrees and the sidewalks are still hot from the prior day’s sun and near 100 degree temperatures. Sometimes, the morning humidity remains unusually high too; A dew point over 70 is my cut off point for taking the dogs out to run - That’s just too much stress for them! When I run with the dogs we run on the city park trails that have frequent water fountains. The dogs all like to drink directly from the special doggie water faucets - they view it as a special treat. I do also take a fold up dog water dish so I can pour water over the dogs if they look a little too hot. We stop for a drink every two or three miles for a little water. I little water often is good, but I don't allow them to tank up on water at any water station because just as with human runners too much water can be a danger!

Max, Petey and Lily happily run any distance I decide to run. During the hottest Texas months, July and August, we usually do not run over six miles a day. The rest of the year we run at least six miles almost every day and on really nice cool and dry days farther, sometimes as far as a half marathon (13.2 miles) run. Whatever the distance we always stop often for a water break. Lacey is a getting a little old to run a distance with the pack, but I often take Lacey out for a walk and short jog with the rest of the pack at the end of our run for the pack's social cohesion.

For anyone reading this blog, a word of caution. If you want to run with your dog, make sure you do not overdo the running, particularly at first. Just as you should visit your doctor before starting on any exercise program, ask your vet how to get your dog started on a running program. Your vet will make sure there are no problems with your dog’s circulatory system or joints. If you live in a sun belt state maybe it would be best to wait for those cooler fall days before you and your four footed friend start a new running program. Also, keep a close eye on your dog's paws. It is nice you have those expensive running shoes to protect your feet, but remember that your dog is running barefoot on concrete. Concrete, asphalt and other hard surfaces can hurt your dog's paws if they are not well conditioned through a slow steady increase of distance over several weeks.

Dogs Need Exercise Too

It is well documented that in order to maintain a healthy life style we need to eat right and get the proper amount of exercise. The same is true for our dogs and they need exercise a lot more than we do. Why? Most dog breeds were bred to work and as a result have enormous amounts of energy and an instinctive drive to do that work. It is important to understand that most pet dogs were bred to perform daily tasks alongside humans, such as pulling sleds, herding sheep, hunting, retrieving and so on. Even before being domesticated our dogs' wolf ancestors roamed as many as 50 miles per day to hunt for food. If a dog does not get adequate exercise, this instinctive energy will build up and demand an outlet, usually in unwanted behaviors. Lack of exercise is the reason many dogs are hard to handle, out of control, and then end up driving their owners crazy, and are turned over to shelters, usually because their owners decide they are “just too hyper.” There is no such thing as a hyper dog - there are only under-exercised and untrained dogs.


The amount and duration of exercise needed by our canine companions varies by age, size, and breed. Medium size dogs need to run a minimum of five miles per week to maintain their health, large dogs need to run even more. Studies have shown that the benefits from consistent exercise are indeed significant as an active dogs life can be prolonged, just like humans. No matter what, it is certain that regular exercise has many health benefits and will help prevent heart disease, extend the life of your pet, promote strength in their bones and muscles that will help ward off arthritis and help your dog maintain a healthy weight.